Cage Setup

The cage should be at least as big as a 20 gallon aquarium and should have a lot of ground space. There are many ways to set your cage up depending on the size of your tank and the amount of money you are willing to invest into it. You should have some source of water that the frogs can get into incase they get too hot, but be sure to make it so that they can get out too. If the water is not connected to a pump or a filter, you should change it every week so that it does not become stagnant. You want to have your cage setup and running for a few days before you put any frogs in it so you can watch the temperature fluctuations and humidity levels.

Captive Care

Animals such as all plants, need light, I have found that special UV lights are a lot better than the regular flourescents, the plants will thrive and your frogs, since they are diurnal (active during the day) will benefit from the light too. You have to be carful on what type of light you choose, watch the thermometer in your cage. On a larger cage, the more lights you need to properly even out the amount of light in the cage. You should keep the humidity high by misting them down once a day if you have running water in their cage, if not, then you should mist them when needed. When it comes to food, they like really small items such as fruitflys and pinhead crickets....Don't be fooled by the frogs size. If the cricket looks any bigger than a 1/4 inch, I would not even put it in the cage because the frog is not likely to eat it. Try to keep their cage clean, this will not only help the frogs out, but it will make you cage more pleasing to look at.

Breeding

When you are ready to breed your tincs, you should make a small "hut" out of half a coconut shell and place a small dish such as a yogurt lid or a petri dish inside the coconut half. Either prop of the shell or cut a small door way in it with a coping saw. Once that is inplace, start to "rain" on your frogs more than usual and make the nights slightly longer by changing the timer on your light setup. The female will lay 7-10(sometimes 15) eggs in the hut and the male will come in and fertilize them soon after. After the male has fertilized the eggs, remove the dish with the eggs on it and place it inside a larger container. The larger container should have a layer of soaking wet filterfloss on the bottom and the dish with the eggs should be placed directly on this. Now, take some plastic wrap and cover the larger container. Open the container once a day to allow oxygen in and to check for moldy eggs. If you find moldy eggs, don't fret, just cut the bad ones away with a razor blade and toss them in the toilet. The eggs will look like little white balls floating in a clear jello like substance. With in a few days, a black tadpole will start to form on the white thing(the yolk) and will grow fairly quickly. Once the tadpoles can straiten their tails out, it means its time for them to be put in the water. A good thing to use for these tadpoles is sterel baby food jars. They are good because you can separate the tads from one another because there is a chance that they might eat each other and you can regulate how much food they get. For food, use fish food, a good brand is called Aquarian Tropical fish Flake®. Place one tadpole in each baby food jar and change the water daily. I would not use plain tap water, instead, use distilled water. If that's not available, use filtered tap water, but it is best to use distilled water. The tadpoles should take about 3 months to change into froglets. When your frogs front legs start to form, you should set up a small 10 gallon aquarium that is half water and half land so they can crawl out when they are ready. They should have a food supply waiting for them, and lots of cover.